By Kath Gannaway
AT ONE time, Fernshaw in the Watts River valley between Healesville and Narbethong was a thriving settlement with two pubs, a post office, store, and a number of settlers and fruit growers.
For 26 years between 1864 and 1890, up to 100 people lived and worked in the village which was a stopping-off point for the Cobb & Co coaches on their way through to Marysville and the goldfields of Woods Point.
It’s hard to imagine, that in its heyday Fernshaw was the top tourist township in Victoria.
“Beautiful gullies, in which there is a profusion of ferns of every variety and degree, from the delicate maiden hair to giant trees 40 feet in height, present themselves at every turn in the road. At the six-mile point slip rails of the track to Mount Juliet are passed and seven miles from Healesville you rattle into the lovely dale famous throughout the colony and beyond it for its exceptional beauty – Fernshaw.”
That is the picture of Fernshaw picnic area that the Healesville Guide Book – Pictorial Souvenir presented to the tourists of the early 1900s.
And, actually, in that respect, it’s not so very different now!
Ultimately, it was the pristine Watts River, the very feature that made it the ideal place for a village, that saw its demise.
The waters of the Watts were needed for the growing metropolis of Melbourne and to ensure the purity of the supply, Fernshaw was bought by the government and returned to nature.
While for decades the township was forgotten, the picnic area with its bush setting, the river and delightful walks remained a popular tourist spot.
“Almost every distinguished stranger who visits the state is taken to Healesville, the drive from the township to Fernshaw being one of the most picturesque and enjoyable in Australia.” The guide book enthused.
Among those “distinguished strangers” was the Duchess of York (later Queen Mary) who travelled by horse-drawn carriage to Fernshaw in 1901.
Today, its great attraction is that there is nothing much there at all – no playgrounds, no kiosks, no distractions, and for the most part, no crowds.
It has a solitude about it which appeals to those who enjoy the quiet enjoyment of the park-like open space surrounded by the majesty of the tall mountain-ash forests of the Black Spur.
The ‘Queen Mary’ tree, a magnificent oak, planted in commemoration of the Duchess’s visit is one of several heritage-listed trees, including a cork oak and American redwoods. Along the main walking track is a series of information boards and photos which provide visitors with a glimpse of village life “in the old days”.
It is a popular starting point for several bush walks, including to Dom Dom Saddle. There are one or two picnic tables, a gas barbecue and toilets – simple amenities in a place which promotes simple pleasures.
Fernshaw Picnic Area is managed by Parks Victoria and is a 15-minute drive along Maroondah Highway out of Healesville.
